Pinky Cole’s Atlanta-based burger chain is valued at a hundred million dollars. Can racy branding take vegan food mainstream? Photograph by Ross Landenberger for The New Yorker Even as the plant-based-proteins business has stagnated, the fast-food chain Slutty Vegan is thriving, with more than ten locations—many near its home base in Atlanta, but also in Birmingham and New York. In this week’s issue, Charles Bethea speaks to the company’s thirty-five-year-old founder and C.E.O., Pinky Cole, who has attracted celebrity cachet and high-profile hospitality money by promoting an ethos that mixes veganism, hedonism, and good old-fashioned vulgarity. We asked Bethea to describe his favorite order. “Like Snoop Dogg and Danny Meyer, I love the crinkle-cut fries coated in ‘slut dust.’ ” he said. “Unlike Meyer, I’m not inclined to eat the slut dust off the back of my hand on its own—although I suppose I can imagine doing so after drinking a couple of Slutty Slushies, which are quite boozy and sugary. As for the burgers, I like the Super Slut, which is topped with guacamole and jalapeños. I ask for it with a little extra char, which, for me, nudges it into “pretty good burger, actually” territory. Support The New Yorker’s award-winning journalism. Subscribe today » |
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