A Buyer's Opinion

I was once a buyer here too. And some of the reasons I bought may apply to others also.

Comparisons with other places we've lived and owned land, in a later post. (Hawaii- Oahu, Big Island, Kauai, Molokai; Costa Rica- Central Plateau, tip of the Osa Peninsula; Rio and Florianopolis, Brazil; Western Australia; Southern California, many places.)

For now, speculation on real estate appreciation, due diligence and the purchase process, and an overview of the Peninsula...


There are as many reasons to buy property as there are buyers. But almost always, there's something in the back of a buyers' mind.........

FUTURE REAL ESTATE VALUES

I have no crystal ball, but here's my opinion and an intelligent guess......

When we arrived 2 1/2 years ago, I compared the price of a beachfront/linear meter on Marau with that of trendy beach destinations like Trancoso and- farther south near Rio- Buzios. I assumed the most attractive beach areas in Brazil would have comparable prices, and the more established destination more expensive. I figured beachfront at already established, 'in beach destinations was the benchmark- at prices below which those in the process of becoming fashionable, like Marau- must fit. According to a prominent land agent in Trancoso several years ago, prices had been stagnant there for several years. I jumped to the conclusion that Marau could not yet support prices as high as Trancoso's, let alone higher.

I was wrong.

The current beach destination "fashionable index" might be measured by exposure in top travel magazines and travel sections of major newspapers plus celebrity purchases. In other words, if a place like Marau were perceived as more "in" than a more traditional top beach area, thene the price ceiling at a place like Trancoso, for example, might simply be ignored. I did not believe them, although I figured they should know better than I.

What has actually happened in the last 2 1/2 years, from what I am aware: Trancoso beachfront has increased in value 60-100%. Last time I checked, around US$12,000/linear meter. Marau was much less expensive at that time. But due to extravagant print media exposure, the building 2 years ago of one of Brazil's premier small resorts, KIAROA and the opulent tropical home of Duda Mendonça, Lula's campaign marketing guru- prices have reached about the same level. The relation of price ceilings to what is currently "fashionable" or "in" may be questionable. I don't know. But what seems clear is beach front in Brazil IN GENERAL is escalating in value. There is VERY little truly desirable beachfront along the entire Brazilian coastline for those looking for a pristine, untouched environment. I 'm not referring to those who are happy to accept the myriad problems that come with overdevelopment, more advanced infrastructure, roads, restaurants, airports and population increases from all socio-economic levels. For those who want this, there is plenty available elsewhere.

But times have changed........ Fewer and fewer believe infrastructure is important at the high end of the beach property market. Those with resources "bring their own"- whatever it is: Satellite TV, internet, private planes/boats/helicopters, reduced time and financial constraints on travel in and out, etc. Clearly there are those that expect, along with a beach residence, lots of great restaurants, night clubs, cultural opportunities, international and domestic air connections, etc. This is characteristic of those who buy land in Buzios, which has all this in abundance. Or Arraial d'Juda and Trancoso, which are fast gaining it. But it is not characteristic of those seeking a place like the Peninsula de Marau.

The Peninsula is a quite different market.

The "Linha Verde" (Green Line) eco tourism highway from the Alagoas border to southern Bahia is due to be completed within a year. It will complete the last remaining link, from Camamu to Itacare. When finished, the highway will skirt the base of the Peninsula, and improve access. However, problems are not anticipated since the Peninsula will continue to be serviced by the rugged ( BR-30 running up and down it. I'm sure we can expect an increasing number of independent travelers, 4WD tours and better logistics to resupply here on the Peninsula. Aong with rising property values which always accompany improved access. But if there is one lesson we have learned here, it is that not only do access and property values rise together. But if allowed to go to far, will kill the goose that lays the golden egg.


CAVEAT EMPTOR

It's amazing how ill informed property buyers can be. How little due diligence, how ingenuous. Foreigners are not alone, although unfamiliarity with the language, laws and customs makes them seem especially defenseless. A Carioca lawyer we know put his foot in it, buyingindocumented land. And paid the price for it. Although a lawyer himself, he did it twice.

The obvious: Before purchasing real estate here, there or anywhere in the world- complete documentation is essential. Especially in a so called 'backward' rural area like this one. A traditional fishing and subsistence agricultural society confronts sociocultural change, expanding development and dramatically escalating land prices. Land ownership and acquisition are changing fast. Many believe that, very soon, little beach front will remain in the hands of local owners. Most will be held by wealthy Brazilians from Rio, Sao Paulo and Belo and foreigners.


OVERVIEW

Many of the bigger properties run most of the way or entirely across the Peninsula. Land in the center is is often unused or unusable. Approximate distances Ocean to Bay, c. 2-4 kms; Ocean to Highway BR 030, c. 1-2 km; Bay to Highway, 1+ km.

For almost everyone, Bay or Ocean frontage are the properties of choice. Far from large bodies of water and views, the center of the Peninsula is hotter, less desireable, and often little vegetated. Breezes from the 2 bodies of water average under 10 knots. They almost die out within the first 200 meters or from the beach. A large part of the center of northern part of the Peninsula is a pantanal, often flooded in winter. A pantanal is allmost entirely barren of trees and large bushes. Nonetheless, it is strictly protected under the APA since the pantanal is fragile, and important to the ecosystem as a whole.

The center of the Peninsula is little used, except for E.-W. landing strips. There are 5-6 of these, including Duda Mendonça's, "the Italians'" at Bombaça which the air taxi to/from Salvador uses, Kiaroa Resort's and Pousada Taipus de Fora's.

Itacare #2, Worldwide

Concierge, online travel connoiseurs, announces Itacaré, gateway to the Maraú Península, top of the world's "coolest" destinations. In fact- #2.

Trendspotters associated with international tastemakers Conde Nast, Architectural Digest, etc, publishes worldwide "2007 'IN' List" ..........

http://www.concierge.com/ideas/styledesign/articles/detail?id=1339

Leading destinations are exotic, erudite. Selection criteria, below, are interesting.

1. Beijing, China
2. Itacaré, Brazil
3. Puebla, Mexico
4. .....for complete list and why, see below.


"Brazil has no shortage of stylish beach getaways—or of perfect little coastal towns still untapped by the outside world. For a few years, stylish bohemians— Gisele, Jade Jagger, Sean Penn—have been quietly coming to Itacaré, in Bahia, for their sleepy-fishing-village escape, keeping its white-sand beaches, aquamarine sea, waterfalls, and mangrove swamps to themselves. But now word is out, with a new resort called Warapuru set to open by October. Portuguese hotelier João Vaz Guedes, with the help of designer Anouska Hempel (of the Hempel and Blakes in London), is turning the sleepy enclave—about 800 miles from Rio—into an eco-fabulous showcase: 40 pavilion rooms nestled into the virgin rain forest with reflecting pools, floating fireplaces, an all-white travertine lobby, and a terraced beach club and spa with phenomenal views of the sea. It's sited sensitively enough to satisfy the environmentally anxious, but is sufficiently high-octane for the jet-setters—who can swoop in to the private heliport and, if they like the place enough, buy a customized villa all their own."
Warapuru warapuru@warahotels.com

The 'List':

1. Beijing, China
2. Itacaré, Brazil
3. Puebla, Mexico
4. Gabon
5. Istanbul, Turkey
6. Argentina's Estancias
7. Macau, China
8. Dominican Republic
9. Ljubljana, Slovenia
10. Miami

Selection criteria from concierge for the 'List".........

What makes a destination "hot"? It's a combination of ingredients, sometimes easy to decipher—new hotels opening, shiny architectural icons being unveiled, a mega-event luring new visitors. But it can be more ineffable, the whisperings of the tastemakers and mavericks for whom getting there before the tipping point is a matter of pride. To travel on the cutting edge, you often need the scoop on the relative unknowns (the West African nation of Gabon, for instance). But perhaps all you have to do is glance at the front page (Beijing, and China in general, keeps grabbing headlines), or even just head to one of those perennials that keep reinventing themselves (Miami molts again!). Or, well, don't think about it at all. Just read our "It" list of the places you'll be hearing about—and, with any luck, visiting—in 2007.\

Concierge's picks are deferred to by gadling, another very cool travel site selecting Itacaré, number 3 of 2007's "Hottest"...

http://www.gadling.com/2007/03/21/2007s-10-hottest-destinations/

Shrinking or Expanding? Well, Yes!

Península de Maraú. From a coconut head 60 feet up

Both. As they like to say, "they're only phases". Beachfront everywhere- bay, ocean or riverfront- is strictly in God's hands: The tides and currents giveth. And they taketh.

An exchange with Pablo, Spanish real estate agent friend in Barra Grande about the erosion of the Camamú Bay side of the Península at Barra Grande, the 'vila'...


Bob,

Received an e-mail from Mr. Barry Hall. That being the American gent who works for the USAF at Mobile, Ala. and Pensacola, Fla. As you know he and his lady, Dona Idilia own a nice beachfront property here in Barra Grande. Well, their property has been severely attacked by the sea, suffice it to say that their front fence has been replaced twice and their newly built gazebo is now at 4yds. from the high tide -- when I first visited them last year the new kiosk was at 25yds. from high tide ...

If you´ve seen Jo-Jô´s restaurant lately you know how distressful the situation is ... also at Jorge´s restaurant, Capitão
Gancho ... now it´s all along the beach, from Ponta do Mutá to Sophie´s beach bar. Only from Pousada das Pedras onwards the beach has grown [sic. receded] like more than 60mts. in depth. The pier isn't faring any better ... won´t be long before it topples into the water.

A French engineer friend of mine is offering some help. He said they´d had the same problem in southern France, Med´s coast. I know the area well, only 150 miles from my hometown. Looks like they fixed it real smart, using a system closely related to that of the local fishermen´s "camboas". Sort of a mobile palisade which stretched along the beach in three succesive rows would in this case be catching sand, not fish.


Pablo,

I hadn't realized how much the ocean had eroded the beach in Barra Grande. Camamu Bay currents have removed close to sixty (60) meters deep frontage?!

When we arrived 2-3 years ago, the conventional wisdom was that this 'large sand spit' of a Peninsula, was shrinking- on the OCEAN side. But BAY side beaches, we were told were in fact growing. Wider and wider. In many places, landowners received a windfall (landfall?) increase, often 50 meters or more. Many Bay side properties we saw obviously had their Bay frontage significantly increased. They were planting trees and gazebos on land previously well under water.

And now, a few laters later, the opposite?

I don't agree mobile palisades to catch sand, prevent erosion work. I suspect the dynamics would be similar to fixed ones. We've seen groins, jetties tried with varying degrees of success in California and everywhere else. The fact is, they have a serious downside, in addition to cost. Groins built at right angles to the beach block natural, free movement of sand sideways along it.

The result to landowners is some sand is caught for them. And removed from others. Not an equitable solution. You end up with an artificially scalloped beach. Those on the immediate upper side of the prevailing current gain. Those on the downside are, well, on the downside. They lose. What counts is the net result of sideshore current, daily tidal currents both in and out, prevailing winds and NE wavetrains up the Bay. The attempt to block sideways sand migration is a waste of time.

The chances of a win-win result are slim against the natural order. Like the stockmarket, for every winner there's a loser. And the dissension, once people 'downstream' from the obstacles (palisades, groins, etc) realize "their" sand is going to the neighbors.

The fact is, the sand belongs to no one. And to everyone- it's the ecosystems', not ours. Have you seen the near total inability to combat surf and tidal impact on the ocean side where no reefs exist? They have tried to save gazebos, a swimming pool or two built too close to the beach. They've tried to preserve land which had been foolishly stripped bare of 'restinga matinha' (natural sand spit vegetation)- dumping big rocks behind post palisades in the attempt to keep the ocean away.

Like pushing a rock up hill, ask Sisyphus. Fighting gravity or the ocean doesn't work. Even if you imagine you have been successful, it will come back and bite you when least expected.

Bob

Property. A Seller's Opinion

REASONS TO SELL

(1) There are as many reasons to sell as there are sellers. My personal favorite is to guarantee your neighbors. Sell part, build next door. However, once sold you've lost control over what is eventually built. But there's a way to select your neighbors, in advance, and make sure they don't build kitsch castles, etc. Ceate a well designed condominium- then turn it over to them once a % of lots have been sold. A condominium synchronizes well with local environmental and development laws. And, because of the process involved, it's more likely to protect both environment and land values. However, it'smore complicated than simply selling pieces and getting out of the way.

The Beachfront: A prime second home condominium location. The place we want to live and share.

The Fazenda-Port on the Bay: This 21 hectares was acquired as a complement, primarily for small boat access to the continent across Camamú Bay. Rare, for many reasons: The shallowness of Camamu Bay. Rigorous government shoreline protection policies. And, as a result, of both, scarcity of deep water access to the Bay.

If not by boat, access to the Peninsula is by air or "the highway we love to hate"- the poor condition of which a blessing. Larger landowners consider an unimproved highway the single best way to protect the Peninsula from mass tourism, the inevitable land rush. And eventually stagnant property values. The result of easy access and overdevelopment is crime and inadequate infrastructure, Like modern camp followers, bandits, prostitutes and drug dealers inevitably seek out development along a newly paved highway. This was the fate of Porto Seguro and many other Brazilian beach communities once paved highways arrived.

Access to the Peninsula is either via fast boat (R$25/head/30 minutes) from Camamu on the continent; air taxi from Salvador (R$330 one way); or private plane or helicopter from Salvador or Ilheus. Cost in money and time (which equals money) is a deterrent to mass tourism and an effective filter of all but high end travelers and future residents.

Socio-economic levels of visitor and intended residents dramatically influences the type of development. Larger landowners on the Peninsula are thrilled the road is this bad. Those with money and influence in Brasilia are in a position to insist it remain that way. The story goes that Lula's previous Chief of Staff was taken back when asked about paving the BR 030 highway: "You mean.... you DON'T want the highway improved? Nothing could be easier!"

Mass tourism means mass production, factory like hotels supplied by tour bus after tour bus. However, none of this is possible with a highway like this, or marginally improved. The goal of most larrge, often environmentally conscious landowners here is large properties in the hands of those with resources enough to protect the environment and avoid the temptation to over develop. This needs to happen quickly, since pressure will eventually become overwhelming, constrained only by access. But from the transfer of land to those with the resources and interest to saveguard it, the goal seems possible.

A major ally are the numerous government agencies dedicated to protecting the environment- espeically one like the the pristine Pneinsula which has such a pronounced media profile. Notable among them are IBAMA (federal) and CRA (state). This in addition to the first and only Municipal APA in Brazil, now absorbed by the State APA. It's a comprehensive series of environmental restrictions and guidelines to maintain the area inviolate as an area of 'permanent protection'.

(2) To finance construction of our home is the second reason to sell part of our land. In Brazil it is difficult if not impossible to finance other than 'popular' homes at one end of the spectrum- or mega projects at the other. I cannot depend on a fixed income, pension, so selling a piece of a large area we do not need for privacy, etc is the obvious choice, despite rising land values.

AN IDEAL BUYER

It is hard to control development following purchase of one's land. But the choice of an ideal buyer, a future neighbor- is relatively easy. A landowner with plans to remain might prefer the kind of buyer, in order of preference, who will....

* Build a primary residence on a large piece of land.
* Build a vacation residence " " " " " "
* Either one, on smaller pieces. 50 linear meters seems close to minimum. But it all depends on implementation.
* High end, low impact, low volume eco retreat, pousada or other environmentally oriented business.
* High end, medium size tourist accommodation. (Ex: www.kiaroa.com for KIAROA resort, c. R$1000 up/night)
* Medium end, medium size (etc)
* Land speculator (last)

The Best of Bahia?

The "best"? I think so, but I have a few prejudices: Natural over artificial, less developed over mega, personalized over resort by the numbers, authentic over 'tourist', exotic over white bread, experience over a fun in sun 'unload', unpaved/undeveloped over paved/developed, raw over packaged. Anything but Gingerbread Palaces we've all seen too much of.

Disclaimer in place, traveling south from Salvador ........



Coast North of Salvador:

Smooth, paved highway- the Linha Verde/"Green Line" 'tourism highway' runs south from the Alagoas border to the Bahia/Espirito Santo border, becoming pot holed and 3rd world there from multinational paper mill trucks. Up north, it's mostly long, straight, flat beaches. Uninspiring, unless 'names' like Arembepe, of '60's tropo hippy fame do it for you. Far as I'm concerned, the only place north that might be worth visiting is Praia do Forte. A destination privately developed by a German guy, kitsch and overdevelopment safeguards are in place. But you won't miss that much if you skip everything north of Salvador.

Coast South of Salvador ("Sul da Bahia"/South of Bahia)

The BESTof the coast of Bahia. Many think the BEST of NE Brazil. Of the NE I've visited- Sao Luis de Maranhao and Lençois; Jericocoara and Fortaleza; Natal and Pipa; Joao Pessoa; Recife & Olinda; Maceio, Alagoas- South of Bahia's the place. Although Alagoas had the best beaches north of Bahia, and the nicest little state capital.

The REAL attraction between Salvador and Itacaré/Ilheus: the islands and ocean beaches. Rule of thumb: it's better the farther south you go. First island is Itaparíca, by hourly ferry boat from Salvador. Since Club Med opened there 20 years ago, it's become uninterestingly decadent. Itaparica exits south by bridge to the continent and Highway 001. It's well paved, but has 52 speed bumps between Valença and Camamú. I assume you will have a good map. Essential. Not outstanding, but there are some attractive stretches along the way. You can also get a boat to Tinharé (referred to usually as Morro de Sao Paulo or simply "Morro") out of Valença.

Note: Most scenic paved road in Bahia, one of the most in Brazil, is a 45 minute run down Highway 262, a lovely, old cacau growing area, big trees, old fazendas, low traffic, good surface. Pick it up from Highway 101 (One of 2 or 3 main highways running N-S through Bahia) not long before you reach Itabuna. It will take you to Ilheus on the coast.
From Ilheus, you drive/ride 50 minutes north to Itacaré, another beautiful, paved road, lots of amazing beaches, rain forest covered headlands. Or go south, which is really not too interesting.

Back to the islands.... Beyond Itaparica to the south is Tinharé and the leading tourist destination town of Morro de Sao Paulo. A big favorite with Brazilians, much better than Itaparíca. Touristy, but has a few splendid, untouched bays. Praias ("beaches) Three, Four and beyond. But remember, it gets better further south...

After Tinharé come Boipeba, quite remote, untouched, small village on the north end along the Rio do Inferno. (Despite the name, it's not "hell".) I'm not sure how you get from Tinharé to Boipeba, but there's always a way. Otherwise, you'd have to go back to Valença and down Highway 001 and get a boat over from some other place. The one a friend often visits with his wife on the Peninsula is Cairú. A colonial "sleeper". Sleepy, too. Lost in time. My friendgoes there regularly to spend the weekend, so it must be worthwhile. From there you can get a boat to Boipeba, if you like. Best for last dept: the Peninsula de Marau. Not really an island, but access is so poor it might as well be one. You may be able to get a boat from Boipeba south, but again- I don't know.

If not, go back to Cairu or another of Boipeba's continental departure towns. Or continue down Highway 001 south. You can access the Peninsula from Ubaitaba. However, I'd go on to beautiful Highway 262 (see Note, above). Take it down to Ilheus, a brief tour of this decrepit, economically depressed, formerly glorious cacau port about which Jorge Amado, local and national hero, wrote many of his books. From Ilheus take the road north to Itacaré. You may want to stop and check out one or more of a half dozen spectacular forest fringed beaches. You will have to park your bike or car and walk. When you finally arrive in Itacaré, you are in the "fun zone". Tacky tourist, surfing, Generation Z+ shops elbow the streets. Depends what you're after. From Itacaré, take the regularly scheduled balsa ("ferry") north across the Rio das Contas to the Peninsula de Marau.

From there, many ride bikes, drive cars along so called "highway" BR 030 that runs north and south along the Peninsula. Soft sand in places, take it easy unless you have experience in soft sand. However, in a car or bike it's easier along the beach at low tide. Two provisos......

1. It's forbidden to do drive/ride the beach in high season (December-March). Because of the torturugas ("turtles") which lay their eggs. However, they lay their eggs way well above high tide in soft sand. So it's hard to see what the real problem for the environment is. Although politically incorrect, someone is always driving and riding the beach somewhere.

2. You need to check a surf shop or the internet in Itacaré for low tide if you plan to ride the beach. Up to an hour or two before and after low tide is OK. Tides: http://www.mar.mil.br/dhn/chm/tabuas/40145Mar2007.htm and replace "Mar2007" in the url with MonthYear you plan to arrive. Best/lowest tides of the month are full and new moons.

3. Rio Piracanga: If it's been raining alot, don't try to the beach. Take the 'highway' BR 030, inland. Synonymous with a broad, sandy, moon cratered cattle track. Stay on the beach and you might even lose your vehicle fording the river.

If it hasn't been raining much, go! Just remember, the key is to walk it before crossing. Do NOT take a stab at it, go for what, well, 'looked ok'. The best place to cross is the reverse of one's natural inclination: All the way out toward the ocean at the mouth, it's widest, most shallow. At the point where the whitewater peters out is a good place to check for soft spots and holes to avoid. For bikers, you may feel more comfortable in deeper water pushing with the throttle wide open and try to keep the plugs dry. For those who like backups (What's the fun in that?), arrange to go in convoy with a 4WD vehicle and a snatch strap or tow line. That way, you'll have help across, if your engine stops.

Once across the Pirancanga River, there are no more obstacles. Unless police on motorcycles in high season, friendly and rather flexible with travelers.

South to the Peninsula, by Land & Sea

Península de Maraú. From space: continent and Camamú Bay (left), Itacaré (bottom), Atlantic Ocean (right).

There are plenty of routes south from Salvador to the Península's base at Itacaré.

They're all good. Which is best depends on personal preference, sense of adventure, type of vehicle, time available, avidity for untouched beaches, desire for variety......





1. WATER ROUTE
From Salvador you can reach the Peninsula de Marau entirely by sea now. Several high speed catamaran services run from Salvador to Morro de Sao Paulo on the island of Tinharé. At Morro, you can make a connection to the Peninsula with a new boat service. Our friends at "Camamu Adventure" have the only scheduled, fast boat transportation service here. However, they are still working out the new schedule. At the moment, Fridays and Mondays, which will change. Or spend the night at Morro de Sao Paulo and take the next boat to the Peninsula. Whenever.

Time: 1 1/2 hours Salvador-Morro de Sao Paulo (Catamaran)
3 hours Morro de Sao Paulo- Peninsula de Marau (170 pax boat)
Total with conex: 5 hours (per latest 'test drive')

This route obviously skips Itaparica. But it's skippable. Also Boipeba, which is nice and a relief after hodgepodge tourism in Morro. However, it has nothing the Peninsula doesn't. The connection from Salvador to the Peninsula is onTinharé at Morro de Sao Paulo.

Bottom Line: The best of the islands + the least hassle + the least highway travel

2. CONTINENTAL (INCLUDES 1 ISLAND)
From Salvador by ferry to Itaparica (keep going.... ) ride south across the bridge to the continent at its southern extremity. Continue on Highway 001 through Nilo Peçanha, Valença, Camamu. Skip the Ubaitaba turnoff to the Peninsula. Instead go on to BR 262 to Ilheus, one of the prettiest drives in Brazil, a lucious, traditional cacao area. From Ilheus up the coast to Itacaré on an excellent paved road through beautiful, verdant tropical rain forest near the ocean.

Bottom Line: The best 'island' (Marau Peninsula) + the most highway time + the most scenic highway


3. CONTINENTAL + (TWO OR MORE) ISLANDS
Do the "Continental" run south to Valença after the ferry to Itaparica. Here you'll have the option of taking a fast, diesel powered boat to Tinharé/Morro de Sao Paulo. Then Camamu Adventure's new boat service (above) to the Peninsula. Or see if you can locate a boat on to Boipeba. Or return by boat to Valença and head south, then toward the coast again to Cairú where you can again take a boat, to Boipeba. Or continue from Valença south following the rest of the One Island "Continental" route, above.

Bottom Line: The most islands, the most options.

If you get tired of islands and beaches, you can always go back to the continent and remain on paved highway the rest of the way. On the other hand, it might be better to skip one or two islands right from the start: Remember, the further south the less touristy, more remote and untouched.

Driving or riding the beach: It's politically correct not to. My wife, bless her, refuses: "What if everyone did!?... What about the turtles?!" The fact is everyone does not and the turtles lay their eggs above high tide. A tip: Stick to Full Moon or New Moon. Tides are more extreme then- low tide is lower than the rest of the month (and high tide higher). You will get epecially firm, flat highway like conditions at low tide at these times of the month. Every two weeks. An hour or two on either side of low tide works too. Especially important : Cross the Rio Piracanga at either full or new moon, at dead low or near it. Tide charts at http://www.mar.mil.br/dhn/chm/tabuas/40145Mar2007.htm (replace "Mar2007" with MonthYear you arrive). "Ilheus" measurements are most accurate.

You can still ride or drive the beach at 1st and 3rd quarter, but it's what's called maré morto" ("dead tide"). That means the interval between high and low tide is small. You should try to ride only at dead low tide during maré morto. Once I drove the beach at low tide maré morto, at almost average high tide height (0.90). Tricky business! Climb and drop (as in surfing) for 30 km.... up with speed to the soft berm high above as the waves rush in... drop down again, pick up speed when the vehicle starts to bog..... climb for elevation up to the soft berm ..... You get the picture. Interesting. My wife didn't forgive me for a month.

Once you've left the beach, be sure to flush vehicle with fresh water as soon as possible. At a gas station, pousada or B&B. Even if you don't actually go through salt water, you'll have picked up invisible maresia ("salt spray")

In soft sand, try letting most of the air out of the tires, always keep up MOMENTUM, avoid heavy loads. The idea, of course is to avoid bogging. If you stop in soft sand it will be hard to get going again.

Brazil and Global Tourism

Best of the Península de Maraú: 'Lake Region' and chains of lakes, Atlantic Rain Forests, hills, mangroves, untracked beaches.

From the HotelBenchmark™ Survey, 2007, comparing global tourism and national performance....

http://www.hospitalitynet.org/news/154000320/4030552.html

"With so much promise, but so many problems, Brazil has yet to fulfil its massive potential as a holiday destination – but there were signs of change in 2006. Stimulated by state investment in infrastructure and incentives targeted at developers, the government tourism body, Embratur, is encouraging hotel investment along Brazil’s north-eastern beach resorts."



Extract on Central & South America from the HotelBenchmark™ Global Performance Review
6 March 2007

Will the real Latin America please step forward – in one corner, political instability, boom and bust economics and severe social problems, in the other, vibrant multi-ethnic cultures, cosmopolitan cities and unrivalled natural beauty.

In 2006 the region was finally stepping out of the shadows of 2001-02. With both the Central American (+8.7%) and South American (+8.1%) regions exceeding the global average for tourist arrivals by some distance, the hospitality industry is happy. Investors’ confidence levels are also rising. South American nations are enjoying an influx of capital from Western Europe, while Central America is benefiting from its proximity to the USA, often in the form of large high-end projects such as golf resorts and residences. International hotel chains are also setting up home, with cities such as Buenos Aires, Caracas and Santiago seeing the supply of the four and five-star rooms swell.

While no Latin American city makes the top 20 of the revPAR GRI, many cities are climbing back from their post-Millennium lows – as illustrated in the graph below. Rio de Janiero leads the region in 61st place, followed by Buenos Aires and Mexico City, at 62nd and 70th place respectively.

Source: HotelBenchmark™ Survey by Deloitte

With so much promise, but so many problems, Brazil has yet to fulfil its massive potential as a holiday destination – but there were signs of change in 2006. Stimulated by state investment in infrastructure and incentives targeted at developers, the government tourism body, Embratur, is encouraging hotel investment along Brazil’s north-eastern beach resorts.

Embratur has also opened dedicated tourism offices in the US and major European cities in an attempt to drive up international arrivals to Brazil, which has traditionally relied on domestic tourism. While around 65m Brazilians holidayed at home in 2006, just 6m international visitors joined them.

The importance of more tourists from overseas is clear – while domestic tourists embrace the low-cost culture initiated by GOL Airlines and Accor’s Formula 1 brand, international visitors are prepared to spend much more. The 6m international tourists spent around US$5 billion in Brazil – the same amount as the 65m domestic tourists. One long-term problem for Brazil has been its lack of air links with Europe, which is reflected in the low number of arrivals last year – 2.5m. However, new direct Lufthansa flights between Munich and Sao Paulo are having an impact. The airline, in combination with Swissair, now offers 19 direct flights to Brazil every week.

The carnival capital of the world, Rio de Janeiro, is undoubtedly one of the world’s most beautiful cities. But Rio’s tourism is hampered by its reputation abroad, and the events of 2006 will not have helped. In terms of supply, Rio’s hotel industry remains fairly static. With the Ipanema and Copacabana districts already over-developed, there is little land left for construction. This maybe why average room rates have increased to just over US$155 in 2006, a rise of 12.7% from 2005, in turn driving revPAR. Occupancy levels are static at a little over 60%.