The Best of Bahia?

The "best"? I think so, but I have a few prejudices: Natural over artificial, less developed over mega, personalized over resort by the numbers, authentic over 'tourist', exotic over white bread, experience over a fun in sun 'unload', unpaved/undeveloped over paved/developed, raw over packaged. Anything but Gingerbread Palaces we've all seen too much of.

Disclaimer in place, traveling south from Salvador ........



Coast North of Salvador:

Smooth, paved highway- the Linha Verde/"Green Line" 'tourism highway' runs south from the Alagoas border to the Bahia/Espirito Santo border, becoming pot holed and 3rd world there from multinational paper mill trucks. Up north, it's mostly long, straight, flat beaches. Uninspiring, unless 'names' like Arembepe, of '60's tropo hippy fame do it for you. Far as I'm concerned, the only place north that might be worth visiting is Praia do Forte. A destination privately developed by a German guy, kitsch and overdevelopment safeguards are in place. But you won't miss that much if you skip everything north of Salvador.

Coast South of Salvador ("Sul da Bahia"/South of Bahia)

The BESTof the coast of Bahia. Many think the BEST of NE Brazil. Of the NE I've visited- Sao Luis de Maranhao and Lençois; Jericocoara and Fortaleza; Natal and Pipa; Joao Pessoa; Recife & Olinda; Maceio, Alagoas- South of Bahia's the place. Although Alagoas had the best beaches north of Bahia, and the nicest little state capital.

The REAL attraction between Salvador and Itacaré/Ilheus: the islands and ocean beaches. Rule of thumb: it's better the farther south you go. First island is Itaparíca, by hourly ferry boat from Salvador. Since Club Med opened there 20 years ago, it's become uninterestingly decadent. Itaparica exits south by bridge to the continent and Highway 001. It's well paved, but has 52 speed bumps between Valença and Camamú. I assume you will have a good map. Essential. Not outstanding, but there are some attractive stretches along the way. You can also get a boat to Tinharé (referred to usually as Morro de Sao Paulo or simply "Morro") out of Valença.

Note: Most scenic paved road in Bahia, one of the most in Brazil, is a 45 minute run down Highway 262, a lovely, old cacau growing area, big trees, old fazendas, low traffic, good surface. Pick it up from Highway 101 (One of 2 or 3 main highways running N-S through Bahia) not long before you reach Itabuna. It will take you to Ilheus on the coast.
From Ilheus, you drive/ride 50 minutes north to Itacaré, another beautiful, paved road, lots of amazing beaches, rain forest covered headlands. Or go south, which is really not too interesting.

Back to the islands.... Beyond Itaparica to the south is Tinharé and the leading tourist destination town of Morro de Sao Paulo. A big favorite with Brazilians, much better than Itaparíca. Touristy, but has a few splendid, untouched bays. Praias ("beaches) Three, Four and beyond. But remember, it gets better further south...

After Tinharé come Boipeba, quite remote, untouched, small village on the north end along the Rio do Inferno. (Despite the name, it's not "hell".) I'm not sure how you get from Tinharé to Boipeba, but there's always a way. Otherwise, you'd have to go back to Valença and down Highway 001 and get a boat over from some other place. The one a friend often visits with his wife on the Peninsula is Cairú. A colonial "sleeper". Sleepy, too. Lost in time. My friendgoes there regularly to spend the weekend, so it must be worthwhile. From there you can get a boat to Boipeba, if you like. Best for last dept: the Peninsula de Marau. Not really an island, but access is so poor it might as well be one. You may be able to get a boat from Boipeba south, but again- I don't know.

If not, go back to Cairu or another of Boipeba's continental departure towns. Or continue down Highway 001 south. You can access the Peninsula from Ubaitaba. However, I'd go on to beautiful Highway 262 (see Note, above). Take it down to Ilheus, a brief tour of this decrepit, economically depressed, formerly glorious cacau port about which Jorge Amado, local and national hero, wrote many of his books. From Ilheus take the road north to Itacaré. You may want to stop and check out one or more of a half dozen spectacular forest fringed beaches. You will have to park your bike or car and walk. When you finally arrive in Itacaré, you are in the "fun zone". Tacky tourist, surfing, Generation Z+ shops elbow the streets. Depends what you're after. From Itacaré, take the regularly scheduled balsa ("ferry") north across the Rio das Contas to the Peninsula de Marau.

From there, many ride bikes, drive cars along so called "highway" BR 030 that runs north and south along the Peninsula. Soft sand in places, take it easy unless you have experience in soft sand. However, in a car or bike it's easier along the beach at low tide. Two provisos......

1. It's forbidden to do drive/ride the beach in high season (December-March). Because of the torturugas ("turtles") which lay their eggs. However, they lay their eggs way well above high tide in soft sand. So it's hard to see what the real problem for the environment is. Although politically incorrect, someone is always driving and riding the beach somewhere.

2. You need to check a surf shop or the internet in Itacaré for low tide if you plan to ride the beach. Up to an hour or two before and after low tide is OK. Tides: http://www.mar.mil.br/dhn/chm/tabuas/40145Mar2007.htm and replace "Mar2007" in the url with MonthYear you plan to arrive. Best/lowest tides of the month are full and new moons.

3. Rio Piracanga: If it's been raining alot, don't try to the beach. Take the 'highway' BR 030, inland. Synonymous with a broad, sandy, moon cratered cattle track. Stay on the beach and you might even lose your vehicle fording the river.

If it hasn't been raining much, go! Just remember, the key is to walk it before crossing. Do NOT take a stab at it, go for what, well, 'looked ok'. The best place to cross is the reverse of one's natural inclination: All the way out toward the ocean at the mouth, it's widest, most shallow. At the point where the whitewater peters out is a good place to check for soft spots and holes to avoid. For bikers, you may feel more comfortable in deeper water pushing with the throttle wide open and try to keep the plugs dry. For those who like backups (What's the fun in that?), arrange to go in convoy with a 4WD vehicle and a snatch strap or tow line. That way, you'll have help across, if your engine stops.

Once across the Pirancanga River, there are no more obstacles. Unless police on motorcycles in high season, friendly and rather flexible with travelers.