| We asked New Yorker staffers to predict the next “it” food—the secret item that will, in short order, be everywhere you look. Sigrid Dilley, assistant managing editor, offers today’s culinary prophecy. We’ll be featuring more responses all week. Kumquats have long been neglected in mainstream cooking, but I think their moment in the sun is coming. For the uninitiated, the bright-orange fruit is pleasingly though puckeringly tart—and undeniably cute. Unlike most other citrus, the skin is tasty, and it contributes to a wild textural variety in your mouth. Eaten raw, they’re wonderfully zingy, but because of their astringency I can imagine a whole host of cooking applications: candied to adorn cake, pickled for salads, braised alongside meat, made into winter marmalade. Though they’re used sparingly now, I trill with delight when I see them. You’ll find them swimming with the hamachi crudo at Manhatta. Or in a Kumquat ’Cello, as a nightcap at Bad Roman. And now that citrus-as-décor is sweeping dinner parties, you’ll likely encounter them at your next soirée. I was recently at one event where the centerpiece was a mountain of citrus, so I popped several kumquats into my mouth like candy. | 
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