We've recently launched the first weather station on the Peninsula de Marau.
Until now, the closest weather information source has been the airport at Ilhéus. That's 4 hours or more by car to the south- a very different climate and life zone. The professional weather station uploads weather 24/7 in real time. Not yet without bugs, your patience is requested. Thanks!
Until installation is fine tuned, an overview of weather on the Peninsula. In other words, hard to beat!
Average minimum/maximum temperatures are 20-30 degrees C. (70's and 80's F.)
Average temperature, the middle somewhere.
Ocean water temperature hovers around 23 C/73 F. Although warm, the ocean is refreshing. Never tepid, ennervating.
Constant, gentle sea breezes. Wind velocity is usually under 10 mph/15 kmh
Rainfall is moderate for the Bahian coast. We'd like to see more of it for the plants.
Please check in soon for updated weather information. We'll get it sorted out, eventually..........
Monday, December 18
Saturday, December 16
Vacation Safety
Remember mom & dad worrying about vacation safety in a 'foreign' country?
Amusing video evokes dark fears ....
http://www.gadling.com/2006/12/15/friday-funny-old-travel-dangers-video/
See also post, "Crime Free? No, but Reasonable."
Amusing video evokes dark fears ....
http://www.gadling.com/2006/12/15/friday-funny-old-travel-dangers-video/
See also post, "Crime Free? No, but Reasonable."
Friday, December 15
'Professional Standards'
Professional services in Bahia. Not quite like back home. From acquiring property to obtaining a medical prescription, everything (dis)obeys the rules. And from another perspective, everything obeys a refreshingly loose format.
It matters where you're from or what you're used to: Los Angeles, London or Lisbon. Rio, Sao Paulo or Brasilia. But it isn't rocket science, either. Structurally, Bahia is all so much more relaxed.
With business enterprises of any kind, a key phrase is 'caveat emptor'. Let the buyer beware, let him often use a lawyer, let him realize short cuts are probably rigged, let him take nothing for granted, let him check everything twice, let him get a second opinion. In other words, let him remember to "look under rocks'. And let him realize that for all his efforts, it may still not be enough.
Six 'Rules' you may wish to consider. They may be respected elsewhere, but they are especially relevant in Bahia. Take them to heart, make of them good friends, and relax. But do cultivate a healthy paranoia. One way or another the attitudes work for the locals. They may also become your best friends on the Península. Ignore good friends and, you know what they say....
(1) In Bahia, simple things are difficult. Difficult ones are simple.
Death and taxes, romance and making attachments. Simple! Getting a driver's license, posting a letter, paying a bill, ad infinitum: These can be surprisingly difficult.
(2) Each time is the first time. For everything. Format is fluid, the road map of objectivity worth consulting. But most everything from itinerary to destination will probably change along the way.
No one looks back, mistakes are repeated, arrangements forgotten, or dismissed. Promises, too.
(3) Rules, laws, regulations are often honored in the breach, more than in the observance. They are not Holy Writ. The law in fact secures little that is secure, anyway. Like road maps drawn in the sand with a stick, they act only as guidelines.
Context is more important than fact. The law strictly on your side? Fine. Better look and see who isn't.
(4) The problem is not lack of laws. There are as many laws here as stars in the sky. They conflict, intersect, harmonically vibrate. We employ a lawyer like a cowboy roping steers in a corral. Some get away, some don't. But what counts is the more laws the more 'loop holes'. Laws are raw material to a lawyer as money is to a banker, flour to a baker. The opportunities are always in the gray areas, and he exploits them. Either for or against our interests.
As our family business accountant in Rio once said, "Corruption in Brazil does not result from low pay. It arises with far too many laws."
(5) 'Professional' is a relative term. Lawyer, real estate agent, doctor, engineer, teacher: all nice labels.
Once we realize they guarantee nothing, we will be much better off. The same thing with accreditation, education, 'professional standards', etc. Framed on the wall, they display nicely, lubricate business interests well. A place to start, perhaps, but the important stuff has nothing to do with it.
(6) Personal recommendations are key. Of course we must evaluate where they come from. And why. So skip what someone's brother in law tells you. Forget the corner grocer, the neighbors, a 'well connected' local lawyer, an expat from another country- even from fairly close like Rio or Sao Paulo. Get other recommendations, cross reference, test. Then hold your breath while you give them a try.
Networking is the attempt to assess credibility above all. Competence comes later. It is, without exaggeration-crucial.
There are others. These are among the more important, and a start. The main thing is to have a 'caipirinha', sit back and enjoy the ride. At first the absence of regimentation can be startling. Later, it becomes liberating.
It matters where you're from or what you're used to: Los Angeles, London or Lisbon. Rio, Sao Paulo or Brasilia. But it isn't rocket science, either. Structurally, Bahia is all so much more relaxed.
With business enterprises of any kind, a key phrase is 'caveat emptor'. Let the buyer beware, let him often use a lawyer, let him realize short cuts are probably rigged, let him take nothing for granted, let him check everything twice, let him get a second opinion. In other words, let him remember to "look under rocks'. And let him realize that for all his efforts, it may still not be enough.
Six 'Rules' you may wish to consider. They may be respected elsewhere, but they are especially relevant in Bahia. Take them to heart, make of them good friends, and relax. But do cultivate a healthy paranoia. One way or another the attitudes work for the locals. They may also become your best friends on the Península. Ignore good friends and, you know what they say....
(1) In Bahia, simple things are difficult. Difficult ones are simple.
Death and taxes, romance and making attachments. Simple! Getting a driver's license, posting a letter, paying a bill, ad infinitum: These can be surprisingly difficult.
(2) Each time is the first time. For everything. Format is fluid, the road map of objectivity worth consulting. But most everything from itinerary to destination will probably change along the way.
No one looks back, mistakes are repeated, arrangements forgotten, or dismissed. Promises, too.
(3) Rules, laws, regulations are often honored in the breach, more than in the observance. They are not Holy Writ. The law in fact secures little that is secure, anyway. Like road maps drawn in the sand with a stick, they act only as guidelines.
Context is more important than fact. The law strictly on your side? Fine. Better look and see who isn't.
(4) The problem is not lack of laws. There are as many laws here as stars in the sky. They conflict, intersect, harmonically vibrate. We employ a lawyer like a cowboy roping steers in a corral. Some get away, some don't. But what counts is the more laws the more 'loop holes'. Laws are raw material to a lawyer as money is to a banker, flour to a baker. The opportunities are always in the gray areas, and he exploits them. Either for or against our interests.
As our family business accountant in Rio once said, "Corruption in Brazil does not result from low pay. It arises with far too many laws."
(5) 'Professional' is a relative term. Lawyer, real estate agent, doctor, engineer, teacher: all nice labels.
Once we realize they guarantee nothing, we will be much better off. The same thing with accreditation, education, 'professional standards', etc. Framed on the wall, they display nicely, lubricate business interests well. A place to start, perhaps, but the important stuff has nothing to do with it.
(6) Personal recommendations are key. Of course we must evaluate where they come from. And why. So skip what someone's brother in law tells you. Forget the corner grocer, the neighbors, a 'well connected' local lawyer, an expat from another country- even from fairly close like Rio or Sao Paulo. Get other recommendations, cross reference, test. Then hold your breath while you give them a try.
Networking is the attempt to assess credibility above all. Competence comes later. It is, without exaggeration-crucial.
There are others. These are among the more important, and a start. The main thing is to have a 'caipirinha', sit back and enjoy the ride. At first the absence of regimentation can be startling. Later, it becomes liberating.
Wednesday, December 6
Surfing the Peninsula
"How's the surf?"
Put it this way....
Those hoping to 'discover' the Next Big Thing may want to look elsewhere. There are enough Surf Meccas already annointed and exploited by the surf rag trade. Validated to the masses with mechanized pro surf contests, surf hero development campaigns, blanket ad supported media coverage and clothing stores with pretensions to be surf shops, ostentatiously displaying a token board or two in the window. In Bahia, Itacaré, the outstanding example of the genre.
Without wanting to appear coy about Peninsula surf, let's recall how surfer-mountaineer-sailor Yvon Chouinard, owner of "Patagonia"0 a progressive clothing and adventure hardware company- once put it. Paraphrasing comments by a wise observer of the modern era ....
"An adventure whose outcome is known is no adventure."
With real time surf reports spotlighting most of the planet's surf breaks over the internet, and massive surf biz media coverage- the authentic adventure has turned into an endangered species.
So we will do our best to help safeguard your own adventures: Wishing you happy discoveries!
Put it this way....
Those hoping to 'discover' the Next Big Thing may want to look elsewhere. There are enough Surf Meccas already annointed and exploited by the surf rag trade. Validated to the masses with mechanized pro surf contests, surf hero development campaigns, blanket ad supported media coverage and clothing stores with pretensions to be surf shops, ostentatiously displaying a token board or two in the window. In Bahia, Itacaré, the outstanding example of the genre.
Without wanting to appear coy about Peninsula surf, let's recall how surfer-mountaineer-sailor Yvon Chouinard, owner of "Patagonia"0 a progressive clothing and adventure hardware company- once put it. Paraphrasing comments by a wise observer of the modern era ....
"An adventure whose outcome is known is no adventure."
With real time surf reports spotlighting most of the planet's surf breaks over the internet, and massive surf biz media coverage- the authentic adventure has turned into an endangered species.
So we will do our best to help safeguard your own adventures: Wishing you happy discoveries!
Monday, December 4
International Airport. Here?
Say it isn't so....
The state government of Bahia has announced an international airport to be built not far from the base of the Maraú Península in Itacaré. And after the airport, the deluge? We would normally expect grandiose new megaresorts and other projects of dubious taste which new international airports spawn across the planet. Pressure to develop the Maraú Península will be enormous.
But there ARE reasons to hope......
Residents, vacation home owners and businesses serving higher socio-economic visitors seeking the rare and unspoiled hope that by the time the airport is ready, land available to high impact development will have become scarce. The prevailing theory is that as land is bought up by out of state Brazilians and foreigners, land available for mammoth, 5 star pleasure palaces to culturally and esthetically pollute the Península- will be locked up, made unavailable.
But there are much stronger reasons to hope the onslaught wil be contained: the geography; our wonderful/outrageous 'roads'; strong state and municipal APA's (Environmental Protection Reserves); and broad local support for 'go slow' development. In fact, the Península has a unique opportunity to discourage massive, disorderly development. Few here will tolerate the Península being overwhelmed by the conveyor belt of air charters and scheduled airline flights which everywhere follow inauguration of a new, international airport.
Let's keep our fingers crossed....
Article translated from the principle Salvador, Bahia newspaper, A TARDE, 25/11/06.......
"ILHEUS TO HAVE NEW AIRPORT IN TWO YEARS"
"The new Ilhéus airport to be built half way between Ilheus and Itacaré will be able to accommodate large commercial aircraft, becoming the new Gateway (to Southern Bahia) not only for Brazilian tourists but, significantly, for international investors. According to Hilton Gordilho, Supervisory Director of the Department of State Infrastructure, the airport project forms part of the State Transportation Logistics Program (PELT-BA) for which studies are underway. The airport is to be built on almost 8 million square meters in partnership with private investment and the Brazilian Air Force Central Command. Work is scheduled to begin within 1 to 2 years. Runways will be 3,000 meters long and permit take off and landing for large international aircraft. !t 1,577 meters, the current Jorge Amado Airport at Ilhéus is inadequate for large aircraft. Ilhéus, Itacaré, Itabuna and Camamú are expected to benefit greatly."
The state government of Bahia has announced an international airport to be built not far from the base of the Maraú Península in Itacaré. And after the airport, the deluge? We would normally expect grandiose new megaresorts and other projects of dubious taste which new international airports spawn across the planet. Pressure to develop the Maraú Península will be enormous.
But there ARE reasons to hope......
Residents, vacation home owners and businesses serving higher socio-economic visitors seeking the rare and unspoiled hope that by the time the airport is ready, land available to high impact development will have become scarce. The prevailing theory is that as land is bought up by out of state Brazilians and foreigners, land available for mammoth, 5 star pleasure palaces to culturally and esthetically pollute the Península- will be locked up, made unavailable.
But there are much stronger reasons to hope the onslaught wil be contained: the geography; our wonderful/outrageous 'roads'; strong state and municipal APA's (Environmental Protection Reserves); and broad local support for 'go slow' development. In fact, the Península has a unique opportunity to discourage massive, disorderly development. Few here will tolerate the Península being overwhelmed by the conveyor belt of air charters and scheduled airline flights which everywhere follow inauguration of a new, international airport.
Let's keep our fingers crossed....
Article translated from the principle Salvador, Bahia newspaper, A TARDE, 25/11/06.......
"ILHEUS TO HAVE NEW AIRPORT IN TWO YEARS"
"The new Ilhéus airport to be built half way between Ilheus and Itacaré will be able to accommodate large commercial aircraft, becoming the new Gateway (to Southern Bahia) not only for Brazilian tourists but, significantly, for international investors. According to Hilton Gordilho, Supervisory Director of the Department of State Infrastructure, the airport project forms part of the State Transportation Logistics Program (PELT-BA) for which studies are underway. The airport is to be built on almost 8 million square meters in partnership with private investment and the Brazilian Air Force Central Command. Work is scheduled to begin within 1 to 2 years. Runways will be 3,000 meters long and permit take off and landing for large international aircraft. !t 1,577 meters, the current Jorge Amado Airport at Ilhéus is inadequate for large aircraft. Ilhéus, Itacaré, Itabuna and Camamú are expected to benefit greatly."
Sunday, December 3
Marau Peninsula & The Dende Coast
Hot article on the cool Dende Coast, where Brazil's current 'in' beach destination is located: The Maraú Península.
"Top of the hip parade" (sic) with Brazil's "kings and queens of beach cool"
- The Guardian (UK)
Click a link for the article.
Or better. Come see for yourself...
"Top of the hip parade" (sic) with Brazil's "kings and queens of beach cool"
- The Guardian (UK)
Click a link for the article.
Or better. Come see for yourself...
'Crime Free'? No, but Reasonable!
City dwellers....
One of the first questions visitors and prospective residents ask: “And the violence?”
Biolent crime on the Peninsula de Marau is very rare. Paulistas and Cariocas increasingly seek the Península as a holiday destination, and not incidentally a refuge from crime. Afterall, nothing is more important while on vacation. Urban congestion, haphazard built form, visual, aural and olfactory pollution- we all need a reprieve from time to time. Not to mention from urban violence.
Paulistas and Cariocas are the first to inquire. An important question for visitors from most of the world’s cities. Thankfully it one which is easy to forget on the Peninsula. Crime is not completely unknown: petty theft, pilferage, removal of gasoline near access to Camamú Bay, a forgotten tool or wallet gone, a few bananas missing from an open dune buggy parked in the Vila (Barra Grande).
Why is violent crime so unusual on the Peninsula?
First, the sophisticated traveler realizes that relative isolation and limited access are important. They are guarantees AGAINST crime, not an incentive. Those seeking relocation and quality of life seek the Golden Ring of security. Unpaved roads and sparse population discourage camp followers like thieves, prostitutes, bandidos, drug dealers. Naturally this crowd go for the most fertile markets: cities and heavily developed coastal paradises with easy access. From a criminal's point of view, why bother with an out of the way place like the Península de Maraú? Beach resorts and hotel with easy access, paved roads and significant population centers are much easier and more productive. Easy targets make life easier.
Secondly, the geography: Maraú is a Peninsula. In fact, it is virtually an island, bordered by the Atlantic on one side, Brazil’s third largest bay, the Baia de Camamú, on the other, the River das Contas at Itacaré the obstacle at its base.
Contrary to conventional wisdom, walls do not exclude criminals. Walls create prisons, to a thief, and the automatic fear of entrapment once the crime has been commited. It's easy to find a way over or around a wall before the break in. But when it comes time to run for it, walls mean serious anxiety.
The same thing is true here. How does a criminal make a getaway following 'the score'? 'The Highway We Love to Hate' (BR 030) is quite an obstacle to the getaway: Police in Itacare and Ubaitaba can be alerted in plenty of time to corral an infractor before he has had time to exit the Peninsula. He'll need 2 hours for this, unless he has a boat or plane. Cars, TV’s, stereos, etc are hard to schlep down the Peninsula at 5-15 mph. Stolen checks and credit cards can be cancelled in plenty of time.
With easy pickings at popular beach resorts such as Buzios, Arraial d’Juda, Porto Seguro, Trancoso- a criminal has to ask himself: “Why bother with the Península?”
Indeed!
Still, residents, pousada and restaurant owners know it will not always be this way. Eventually the Península will be less tranquil than today. A movement exists on the Península to install a portal or gate transforming the Peninsula into a sort of 50 km long gated community. Under the plan, tourist police manning the gate on the highway south of Maraú would note license plate numbers, ID’s, offer travel tips and distribute tour information and brochures. Departure from the Peninsula would also be monitored.
Good idea. Let’s hope it doesn't become necessary.
One of the first questions visitors and prospective residents ask: “And the violence?”
Biolent crime on the Peninsula de Marau is very rare. Paulistas and Cariocas increasingly seek the Península as a holiday destination, and not incidentally a refuge from crime. Afterall, nothing is more important while on vacation. Urban congestion, haphazard built form, visual, aural and olfactory pollution- we all need a reprieve from time to time. Not to mention from urban violence.
Paulistas and Cariocas are the first to inquire. An important question for visitors from most of the world’s cities. Thankfully it one which is easy to forget on the Peninsula. Crime is not completely unknown: petty theft, pilferage, removal of gasoline near access to Camamú Bay, a forgotten tool or wallet gone, a few bananas missing from an open dune buggy parked in the Vila (Barra Grande).
Why is violent crime so unusual on the Peninsula?
First, the sophisticated traveler realizes that relative isolation and limited access are important. They are guarantees AGAINST crime, not an incentive. Those seeking relocation and quality of life seek the Golden Ring of security. Unpaved roads and sparse population discourage camp followers like thieves, prostitutes, bandidos, drug dealers. Naturally this crowd go for the most fertile markets: cities and heavily developed coastal paradises with easy access. From a criminal's point of view, why bother with an out of the way place like the Península de Maraú? Beach resorts and hotel with easy access, paved roads and significant population centers are much easier and more productive. Easy targets make life easier.
Secondly, the geography: Maraú is a Peninsula. In fact, it is virtually an island, bordered by the Atlantic on one side, Brazil’s third largest bay, the Baia de Camamú, on the other, the River das Contas at Itacaré the obstacle at its base.
Contrary to conventional wisdom, walls do not exclude criminals. Walls create prisons, to a thief, and the automatic fear of entrapment once the crime has been commited. It's easy to find a way over or around a wall before the break in. But when it comes time to run for it, walls mean serious anxiety.
The same thing is true here. How does a criminal make a getaway following 'the score'? 'The Highway We Love to Hate' (BR 030) is quite an obstacle to the getaway: Police in Itacare and Ubaitaba can be alerted in plenty of time to corral an infractor before he has had time to exit the Peninsula. He'll need 2 hours for this, unless he has a boat or plane. Cars, TV’s, stereos, etc are hard to schlep down the Peninsula at 5-15 mph. Stolen checks and credit cards can be cancelled in plenty of time.
With easy pickings at popular beach resorts such as Buzios, Arraial d’Juda, Porto Seguro, Trancoso- a criminal has to ask himself: “Why bother with the Península?”
Indeed!
Still, residents, pousada and restaurant owners know it will not always be this way. Eventually the Península will be less tranquil than today. A movement exists on the Península to install a portal or gate transforming the Peninsula into a sort of 50 km long gated community. Under the plan, tourist police manning the gate on the highway south of Maraú would note license plate numbers, ID’s, offer travel tips and distribute tour information and brochures. Departure from the Peninsula would also be monitored.
Good idea. Let’s hope it doesn't become necessary.
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