| Annals of Gastronomy One Day—and One Night—in the Kitchen at Les Halles From 2000: For weekenders at the restaurant on Park Avenue South where I work as the chef, a saddle of wild hare stuffed with foie gras is not a good special. By Anthony Bourdain | | | A Critic at Large Why We Wanted to Believe Martha Stewart’s Promises From 2000: By branding herself as Everywoman, Stewart made even her troubles an integral part of her success. By Joan Didion | First Tastes A Sandwich From 2002: It’s soft but crispy, tender but chewy, peppery but sour, smoky but tangy. It’s a symphony orchestra. By Nora Ephron | | | Take Out Take It or Leave It From 2013: Every New Yorker has heard a newly arrived British person grumble about tipping. By Zadie Smith | Gastronomy Recalled Notes on Cravings From 1968: There is, in fantasizing about food, no saturation point, no moment at which the body must cry Help! By M. F. K. Fisher | | | Popular Chronicles The Homesick Restaurant Run by Cuban Refugees From 1996: What’s the difference between the Centro Vasco in Havana and the one in Miami? Thirty-three years of dreaming. By Susan Orlean | U.S. Journal Eating Crawfish in Breaux Bridge, Louisiana From 1972: There are crawfish all over the country, but outside of Louisiana they are all but ignored—lumps of clay lacking a sculptor. By Calvin Trillin | | | Dept. of Gastronomy Save the Planet, Eat a Bug From 2011: Plentiful and protein-rich, insects are food in much of the world. Why not here? By Dana Goodyear | First Tastes How Sea Urchin Tastes From 2002: I point to a bin and say that’s what I want—those split spiny spheres, like cracked-open meteorites. By Chang-rae Lee | | | Newsletters Sign Up for The New Yorker’s Books & Fiction Newsletter Book recommendations, fiction, poetry, and dispatches from the world of literature, twice a week. | | | | | Shouts & Murmurs When Lean Cuisine Was New From 2000: Would you like the Fried-Butter Appetizer? Or is the Air Salad more to your liking? By Steve Martin | Cartoons from the Issue Cartoons from the Issue Drawings and drollery from this week’s magazine. | | | | | | |
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