When R-BBQ had to cut its hours and reduce its portions, the effects rippled through the community. Photograph by Sarah Karlan for The New Yorker In many small Texas towns, the local barbecue restaurant is a social and economic hub. Sabinal, a town with one stoplight, two gas stations, and one taxidermist, is no different. On many days of the week, R-BBQ—which has blue booths, red bandana-print curtains, and a daily lunch special written on a whiteboard—is one of only two lunch options that are not fast-food chains. The owner Robert Rodriguez’s regulars are so regular that they have a table that’s unofficially reserved for them; some know his prices so well that they come in with exact change for their meal already portioned out. “You raise the prices ten cents, and they know it,” Rodriguez said. —Rachel Monroe, from “The True Costs of Inflation in Small-Town Texas” Support The New Yorker’s award-winning journalism. Subscribe today » |
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