On Fridays, we’ve been spotlighting recommendations from New Yorker contributors. Today, we spoke with the food critic Hannah Goldfield, who writes the weekly Tables for Two restaurant column. Best use of food in something I’ve seen recently: I expected to hate but in fact loved the movie “The Menu,” which uses food in almost every scene. I went in knowing very little and was delightfully surprised by all the twists, so I don’t want to give too much away. But here’s a funny example that won’t spoil anything: the restaurant dinner that the plot centers on includes a course of tortillas that are laser-engraved with images personalized to each guest, sort of like latte art. Later, s’mores are also played to excellent effect—and that’s all I’ll say about that. 📺 Best recent meal that I didn’t eat in a restaurant: I worry that I’ll sound too self-congratulatory when I say that I made it myself, for a very small dinner party one recent Saturday—however, I can’t really take credit for it. I followed, to the letter, a Nigella Lawson recipe that I’ve found to be foolproof. It involves searing a whole chicken and then boiling it (plus carrots, leeks, and aromatics) in water in the oven. After an hour and fifteen minutes, you add orzo to the liquid, and pop it back in for another fifteen. When it’s done, you remove all the bones, which slip out easily from the meat (I use tongs for this), stir it all up, and sprinkle fresh parsley on top. It makes for the most glorious one-pot meal, somewhere in between a brothless chicken-noodle soup and a risotto. It’s extremely impressive to guests (not to mention family members) and easy even for beginner cooks, if you don’t mind a bit of chopping and handling a whole chicken. I served it with a baguette and a simple green salad, and, because one guest was celebrating a birthday the next day, a homemade vanilla cake, with rainbow sprinkles added to the batter for a Funfetti effect, and Duncan Hines vanilla frosting and more sprinkles on top. 🍲 The last thing I read that I can’t get out of my head: I keep thinking about a book that I read last year: “Endurance,” by Alfred Lansing. First published in 1959, it’s an incredibly detailed and gripping account of Ernest Shackleton’s failed 1914 Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition, and it simply blew my mind. I always joke that I’d be the first to give up during any kind of natural disaster, which makes the psychological and physical resilience of the survivors of the calamitous expedition even more astonishing, although I suspect it would astonish just about anyone. I read it after tearing through another true story of unlikeliest survival: “Alive,” by Piers Paul Read, which was a best-seller when it came out, in 1974, and tells the story of a Uruguayan rugby team whose plane crashed in the Andes. (Trigger warning: cannibalism.) I am always eager for suggestions of other tales of extreme adventure. 📖 |
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